Photography highlights...through my eyes

I took these photos with an inexpensive Nikon S570 Coolpix camera which also shot good video.  Photos were taken in April, 2010, in Malawi, Africa.

Road Trip Anyone?  Even though the main highway is paved and sound, I recommend taking the bus on long trips.  The pace is a little slower and the views are fantastic!  You get a peak of villages, markets, people, animals, and daily life in the rural areas as you cruise by.   Bicycling is the main means of transportation in Malawi.  Cheap Chinese bicycles are everywhere in the country.

Whether you drive or take the bus, don't be surprised if you are required to disembark along the way at "security check points."  The police may look through your luggage without explanation as they did twice when I was on the bus.  Mini-buses are everywhere and are an inexpensive alternative to driving; however, I recommend paying a little bit more for a modern 'luxury' coach. An AXA bus service ticket costs about $20 (one-way) to go from Blantyre to Lilongwe, a four hour drive.  The coach is clean, the seats are comfy,  there is air conditioning, and a bathroom with hot water!   If you missed breakfast, not to worry,  a snack of a little dry cupcake, tasty beef samosa, and orange Fanta is provided.

Guests are entertained by music (a bit too loud) streamed over the PA, so bring your own headphones.  I enjoyed rocking out to AC/DC's "Back In Black" in my seat behind the driver, gripping the seat as the bus narrowly missed side-swiping goats, cows, cyclists, and pedestrians along the twisted roads.  Four hours is a long drive for me so I was glad when the bus stopped along the way at a market where I stretched and people bought local tangerines.

 I explored the south to mid-range of the country:

• Arrived via South African Airlines in Blantyre (where I was born) 
• Mom's funeral was in Balaka (where mom was born)
• Easter holiday with the family at Lake Malawi in the Mangoche area
• Followed by another week at the Lake at Nanchengwa Lodge: http://nanchengwa.com/
• Bus to the capital in Lilongwe-stayed at the Kumbali Lodge:  http://www.kumbalilodge.com/
• Bus to Salima-stayed at the Sunbird Livingstonia: sunbird livingstonia
• Bus back to Blantyre

Map of Malawi
Malawi is a landlocked country.  It doesn't feel like it though, when you see how BIG Lake Malawi is.....Notice how Mozambique wraps around the south half of Malawi... Thought it would be cool to travel on the Zambezi River in Mozambique (remember the African Queen?).

Malawi is near enough to Harare, Zim to do a road trip.  Also, would love to see Victoria Falls ...next trip in 2012...stay tuned:)

FAMILY

I have a HUGE family living in Malawi.  I was able to meet many of them and spend one-on-one time with each of my aunties and uncles and cousins.  I was well taken care of by everyone I met.  Each person I met did their best to show me hospitality, fun, assistance, and support.  I have not included each beloved relative in this post; however, they are all in my heart and will be added in future posts...so I have not forgotten you... Salim, Dean, Tony, Jaffar, Anwar, Hajira, Polly,  Uncles Al and Albert, along with the Aunties Sarah, Ed, Katie, Amina, Fatima, Farida, etc.  I love you all and think of you often!!

Granny Vovo

My favorite photo is one of Granny Vovo who lives in Balaka.  She is the matriarch of our family and represents love, loyalty, sacrifice, and perseverance.  Her light and faith remains constant; despite the challenges she faced as a young widow with many children.  It was a blessing to see her again in 2010  and have been deeply moved by her support toward the formalization of the my mom's burial place.  I celebrated her 70th birthday with her in 2002 and plan to celebrate her 80th in 2012!  Go on Granny!

Auntie Hani and Baby

Ahhh...Auntie Hani...We also call her Auntie Nita, but I like Hani because it rhymes with Honey... She and I get along famously (we both love adventure!) and I will never forget her 2001 visit to Tucson, Arizona, when I took her to a biker bar to celebrate her 70th birthday.  This went against my mom's wishes (of course) but we had a fantastic time!  I never knew that bikers love karaoke??

Me and Auntie Zainub

Auntie Z took excellent care of me.  Spending time at her house at the Lake was relaxing and joyous.  She thought of every treat possible and I ate and drank all that was put in front of me!  Fabulous hospitality.

Sisters

What can I say about my cousin/sister Meroo?  Generous, kind, loving, and tireless.  She's an inspiration and I can't wait to have her stay with me for a while in the U.S.  Let's explore the Land of the Free and the Brave for a few weeks together!!   I am seeing a west coast road trip in our future...okay with you....Thelma?

p.s.    Feel free to bring Ash, Lena, and the kids...we'll pretend we are rebel warriors:)

Nganga and her grandson also live in Balaka near Granny Vovo...  Absolutely Beautiful.

Cousin's Night Out

Had a fantastic night out with my cousins...with Nagib, Farid, Sid, and Shane... the girlz... Sharifa, Meroo, and Zaitun.

LAKE MALAWI

Boy at Dusk

Photo taken at Lake Malawi over Easter weekend during an evening beach walk.  The boy was sitting on a rock while fishing.  It looks like he took a moment to enjoy the view of the boat heading out for night fishing along with the hill in Mangochi in the background.

Men in Boat by Rocks

Me and my little dolphin-niece, Maya.    Isn't she lovely?   

Ryan the Fisherman

Ryan Long, my host at Nanchengwa Lodge, and one of the many fish he caught when he took me, his father-in-law and another house guest fishing.  Ryan is married to a lovely lady named Daynie.  I was entertained by the free spirit of their beautiful daughter, nicknamed fishy.

Speaking of fish...We ate fresh fish almost every day I was at the Lake.  Fried, braaid, stewed, or even dried.  My favorite fish to eat is chombo (aka talapia) which was super tasty fried!!

Romaana with lolli

I had some fun editing this photo, which I originally shot at dusk (same time as Boy at Dusk).  It was too dark to appreciate my niece, Romaana, holding her lollipop and looking naturally beautiful; therefore,  I fixed it!

MALAWI BEACH PROJECT

 

Me and Grace

Grace is a little girl I met on the 3.5 hour bus ride from Lilongwe to Salima.  Her voice caught my ear because I could hear her strong soprano voice ringing out over the older children on the bus as they sang along the way.  She was one of three hundred orphans that came on day trips to Lake Malawi, as part of Malawi Beach Project 2010, sponsored by the U.S. organization, Youth of Malawi.   Most of the children had never been to the Lake before.  The sounds of pure joy filled my heart with deep satisfaction.  It was an honor to join this group and a blessing to bring my niece Romaana along with me on this little adventure.  Love to Ryan Coutu, President of Youth of Malawi, with me below:

Kids don't get much cuter than this little guy... I couldn't take my eyes off him.  Malawi has almost one million orphans, according to 2009 United Nations statistics.  Why then, can only married couples adopt children?  Why restrict single men and women from adopting children when there is such a need? 

OTHER PHOTOS

Lanterns

The lanterns looked beautiful to me, as they sat on a table at my grandmother's house in Balaka.  They really came in handy when the power  went out in the evening after my mom's funeral.  I sat with my family in lantern and candle light that evening, comfortable and cozy, talking until bedtime.

Baby in a Bucket

One of the cutest pictures I took was this baby placed in a bucket by her mother who was selling fruit and veggies in the parking lot of St. Andrews International Primary School in Blantyre.

Cousin Meroo couldn't resist playing with the baby:)

Hair braiding was the perfect solution for my hair that had become out of control due to swimming.  Too bad it didn't last long, but least it only cost me about $7.00 (which I was later told was too much to pay:)

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Little Bill has moved on...

Just wanted to give a little shout out to my little buddy Bill.  He passed away three weeks after I left for Malawi, while in the care of his vet, Dr. White.  Bill was 21 years old and definitely was living his 9th life after surviving hospitalization for high blood pressure and failing kidneys.

When I was planning my trip to Malawi, I had to organize many details to ensure that my trip would be successful.  The biggest challenge was finding a home for Bill to stay in while I was gone.  Due to his medical issues, I decided that the best care would be with Dr. White, the owner of Lake Sawyer Veterinary Hospital.  Dr. White did the best she could to keep Bill going; unfortunately, he had a problem with his esophagus which did him in.  What a trooper, what a tough little fellow!!

Who would have thought that a little furry animal being could offer so much love and comfort to a human being?  Well, my little buddy Bill did just that.  We were pals for many years and I will never forget him.  Rest in Peace little buddy... I love you Pooh!

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What Happened with my Blog Posts???

Yes, I am back in the U.S. after seven weeks in Malawi.  Glory to God for a life-altering experience which is creating healing bonds throughout the family.  I was able to see my mom, Habiba, again through the faces and voices of her brothers and sisters.  She was laid to rest at a funeral which reflected the love and respect the family has for her.  It is a blessing to know that a place will always exist where her children, grand-children and great grand-children can pay their respects while learning about her unique lineage and upbringing on the family farm in Balaka.


The photo below of my mom's grave was taken the day after her funeral.  She is surrounded by sisters Sarah and Nita, granny Vovo, and sisters  Zainub, Farida (black head scarf); along with other relatives.  The Kroeker family is heart warmed by the amount of effort extended toward the building of the grave and the second cemetery; we send our thanks to all involved.

No, I was not able to update my blog since Johannesburg because I had minimal internet access while in Malawi.  When I was able to find an internet cafe I was unable to access my blog....it was really frustrating; however, it was a lesson on patience and just letting things flow.... knowing I would reconnect when I got home.

I will try and re-create the adventure using text and photos (and possibly video), moving forward from my trip to the apartheid museum in Johannesburg.

I admit that I don't know enough about African political history.  However, I do know a little about apartheid from my parents who told me of their experience visiting South Africa during apartheid.  As you can imagine, my white father and colored mother, were not received warmly as a couple.  

When I visited the Apartheid Museum, I was impressed by the extensive video installations and artifacts on display regarding Nelson Mandela's life and the struggle that South African people transcended.  First pointer....when you visit the Apartheid Museum bring your own water bottle because there are no water fountains!  Also, no pictures or videos are allowed inside.

One installation that helped me understand the conditions of Mr. Mandela's incarceration on Robin Island for 27 was a replica of the cell Mr. Mandela lived in which was only 5 square meters!  

(I took these photos "outside" the museum.)

The museum reflected Mr. Mandela's family background:  He was born in the town of Mvezo, to a father who was the chief and a great-grandfather who was the king of the Thembu people.  This man's lineage came from great leaders and his gift was to use the opportunities available to him throughout his life; despite the challenges living as a man of color in a racist society.  For example, while in prison, Mr. Mandela received a Bachelor of Laws degree from the University of London, by correspondence (before internet!)  My desire to earn a Masters degree is a no-brainer when I think about Mr. Mandela's ability to negotiate a path toward education, while in prison!! 

Mr. Mandela's God given negotiation skills and patience facilitated a national reconciliation leading to the transition toward multi-racial democracy following his release on February 11, 1990.  He was the President of South Africa from 1994 to 1999.

I found Johannesburg to be an interesting place to visit.  The city is modern and you can find any consumer good that you are looking for.  However, I felt an underlying feeling of safety there.  Particularly since the locals told me about their experiences with car jackings and home invasions.   There are other parts of the country, near the coast that is more appealing to me to visit.  I am glad that I took the time to stop and look around.

Nelson Mandela in his cell on Robben Island (Revisit). Jürgen Schadeberg. 1994 

Johannesburg, South Africa (March 11-12)

The flight from Seattle to Washington D.C. to Dakar (Senegal) to Johannesburg was fairly comfortable since I flew business class on South African Airlines.  They really know how to treat their passengers and I was quite surprised by the level of attention we received.  The seats have multiple adjusters for every part of the body and also had massage!  When you get on the flight they come around several times offering cocktails (I was very good and only had one glass of champagne), then they set your tray with linen and silverware and serve four courses!  Yes, I sound like a country bumpkin:)  After dinner, they literally pull out the comforters, turn your seat into a bed and tuck you in for the night...never experienced anything like this before.

 I met a lady from South Africa (currently living in Marysville) at SeaTac airport named Jenny.  She told about experiencing the end of aparteid and was very compassionate.  We hung out all the way to Jo'Burg.  When we got to our layover at Dulles, we got to hang out in the S.A. VIP lounge...free food and drink...really nice!

I also met a lovely flight attendant on the plane named Faith Nseula who is from Malawi.  We exchanged contact information and hope to meet in Malawi.   People are so friendly and kind, I have been able to relax and not be sad about the purpose of my travels.  I felt safe and blessed the entire way.  I only wish I looked as fresh and pretty as Faith after many hours in the air...oh well, we are all given different gifts.

I was met at the airport by a lady named Dorothee (she is French) who drove me 50 kilometers to Klip-Els.  She is also going to be taking me to the aparteid museum today and back to the airport on Saturday, all for a reasonable fee.  My cousin Shareen is meeting me tonight and taking me to dinner.  I can't wait to see her!!

Here is a photo of the adorable cottage I am staying in.  This place is incredibly beautiful and peaceful.  I found it on the internet and could not ask for more comfortable accomodations and helpful staff, for a reasonable fee (about $80 per night!)

 I had an English breakfast in the rondavel a traditional South African thatched house.

Dorothy is here and we're off to the aparteid museum!  Hugs and love!